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High 4850 temps.

2K views 20 replies 9 participants last post by  Squall-Leonhart 
#1 ·
I'm already running this thing at 75% fan speed and I've seen my card hit 100C. I've done research on all sorts of mods for the card's stock heatsink.

I don't have any money. :(
but here's what I do have.

-Some Arctic Silver
-Ingenuity

What should I do that would simply take the temps down a bit? I could clean the heatsink and die off and put some new paste on.

I'm just not sure anything I do would be worth doing and I don't want to ruin my warranty.
 
#2 ·
Well, cleaning it all up should help somewhat. If there aren't any, make holes on the case right by where the GPU is(on the side of the case, of course). That should help with getting hot air out. New paste could help, but I'm not sure what would happen to the warranty if you did that. It would probably become useless after that.

Other than that, you can't do much more without a single dollar, as far as I know.

(you helped me with my problem, so it only feels right to do the same, even if you probably thought about all of the aforementioned things already)
 
#6 ·
I found this::

Alfredo Blogs Page

A very interesting read. It's amazing what a person can do on a limited budget.
For example running the fan at 100% in games the average load temperature is 55° celsius at 20° room temp. Running ATI tool the average is 58° celsius. And Furmark stability test maximal temp are 78° celsius. All the tests with the card overclocked at 685/1125.
Did you miss that part by any chance? ;p

Seriously, the "mods" in there are just for show. If you really need air flow, there's no way around cranking the fan up. The plastic sheet was also there to keep heat from contact with other components other than the regulators and the GPU because some stuffs on the card are pretty sensitive.

That aside, the card is hot at over 100 for most of the time because the sensors can be really really really really whack...

I already talked about this a few months ago:



Room temp was 25°, now I can't even make out how it idled at such low temperatures.

Next...



See that? 38° under load. At 800MHz. Damn if those weren't some whack sensors then I don't know what they were. :p

So don't trust them all the time. If the card doesn't fry, then just use it as is. Otherwise, I hope you still have warranty.
 
#7 ·
If the card doesn't fry, then just use it as is. Otherwise, I hope you still have warranty.
Even so, if my card was overheating I would've seen some kind of driver crash in-game which has yet to happen; even after hours of Fallout 3, Crysis and Mirror's Edge.

But if that does happen; I think I'll just find myself a good aftermarket cooler in the future; which in any case would probably be the right decision.
 
#8 ·
Even so, if my card was overheating I would've seen some kind of driver crash in-game which has yet to happen; even after hours of Fallout 3, Crysis and Mirror's Edge.

But if that does happen; I think I'll just find myself a good aftermarket cooler in the future; which in any case would probably be the right decision.
Or sell the HD4850 and get an alternative. You know... I think the HD4770 would be close to that kind of performance, and would run a lot cooler. ;)

And when the card overheats, you'll start seeing white artifacts in games, so watch for those.
 
#9 ·
Let me share my expirience becouse I use Club3D 4850. Clocked to 690/1050 with ATI Catalist. After 5-10 min after sistem boot temp is 39-42. On full load 60-65 with fan speed 70%. It's not clocked that much, but currently I don'n need more.

What I could see from the that images, something is wrong with your readings/sensors. I have never clocked to 800 and maybe I'm wrong. The best u can do is to try your card in some friends PC. Thats one of the ways to solve the problem. Aslo try on default settings so u can compare them with mine.
 
#11 ·
What I could see from the that images, something is wrong with your readings/sensors. I have never clocked to 800 and maybe I'm wrong. The best u can do is to try your card in some friends PC. Thats one of the ways to solve the problem. Aslo try on default settings so u can compare them with mine.
Well, it requires loads more voltage to stay stable at 800MHz, so that would be something you don't want to try on air cooling... or at least not with the stock cooler.

And yeah, sensors are whack. Told people last time. Many times over. They just don't believe me. :p I even got a -5C at boot.
 
#12 ·
I read it in a tech magazine that you can lower the temperature inside the case by increasing the intake over the exhaust. for example using two intake fans and one exhaust fan. Also the wires must be placed properly so that they do not hamper the airflow inside the case.
Making a blowhole right below/next to the card on the pc case side panel and fitting it with an intake fan would do wonders(worked for me)
Last one is my idea, I didn't read it from anywhere:heh:.
 
#13 ·
The intake in my case is all side-intake. The front intake bracket is almost completely blocked by my HDD's(The air would just be hot again before it hit the 4850).

If I move both HDD's down one, there's a chance it could work but my PSU wires wouldn't be able to reach and I'd have to more than likely get some kind of extension. Not to mention that I don't have any spare fans save for one 80mm which wouldn't do the trick anyway. I'd need a 120mm.
 
#17 ·
in that case, its your air flow throughout the case that is stagnating and cooking the card to higher temps.
 
#18 ·
in that case, its your air flow throughout the case that is stagnating and cooking the card to higher temps.
I figured that out after a bit. Before I put the fan over the PCI covers; there appeared to be a lot of heat pocketing around the bottom of the card. The 4850 wasn't really capable of pushing all of that heat out on it's own just having one PCI port open underneath it.

I'm just giving it a push. I intend on getting a small PCI-port fan to vent the hot air out as soon as I can which should(theoretically) do the same thing which is just grab the hot air around it and throw it out via one port rather than... all of them. What I'm doing right now isn't exactly practical.
 
#21 ·
Taking the side panel off really isn't any good either.
 
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